Ragout, Daube, call it what you want – but take beef cheeks, if you can. I adore this kind of meat which is not highly regarded in a world where everybody goes for the so-called “noble” parts like steaks or fillets, and quick pan-frying or wok-ing is all we’ve still got time for. Yet the… [Read more…]
September 29, 2010
…soon the fish vendors here will display their still lives made of scallops in lovely shells, the French oysters reach their peak and the heavier fare returns to all tables. I had a first seasonal feast these days while celebrating the 80th birthday of good, old George, we were a happy dozen around the big… [Read more…]
September 28, 2010
I don’t know about your experiences but I’ve found out in life that most cooks, professionals or amateurs, have a clear preference when it comes to the above question. In many restaurants you can witness the consequences: Quite often, a talented pâtissier decides to open his own shop, just to learn that he can’t really… [Read more…]
September 25, 2010
A slice of fresh bread spread with a rich, creamy, comforting liver paté can make a beautiful supper as long as you avoid the pre-packed “French” supermarket fare. Just do it yourself! It’s easy, it’s ten times better and it makes you feel good and skilled. Here’s a perfect home-made Parfait de foies de volaille: What do… [Read more…]
September 24, 2010
…as long as you wash and drain it properly, two times, three times, get rid of the sand! In France, you can buy fresh, young baby leaves at every corner, and they are particularly delicious. Keep it simple: Use some oil (or butter), some garlic, some shallots, then add the leaves (without drying them), some… [Read more…]
September 23, 2010
…in order to peel them, please! When I check my recipe books for “how to peel tomatoes” I find a lot of bad advice and many wrong suggestions. “Sink them into boiling water for 10 minutes” – Jesus Christ! After that they’ll have a consistency of slubbery sludge. You want to peel a tomato? Well,… [Read more…]
September 16, 2010
I know this might be a bit confusing but my work life as a world affairs reporter for SPIEGEL magazine makes me drive on the fast lane from time to time. Yes, I’ve been to Oslo two days ago, and after that in Brussels, yet since this morning I’m back to Kabul, flying in via… [Read more…]
September 13, 2010
Yes, and ten times: yes! This is an experience, a real one, and I bow to Marcus Jacobsen who is the head chef up there at Thorvald Meyers gate 78 in Oslo, close to the quite dodgy city centre of the Norwegian capital. If you call yourself a foodie, well then, book a flight to… [Read more…]
September 12, 2010
…is offering weird views when you’re high up on one of the hotel towers surrounding the Norwegian capital. I had dinner tonight (or let’s say: a cocktail dinatoire!) on the 34th floor of the Radisson Blu Plaza where an international conference about world finance and job creation unfolds. You think I’m kidding, don’t you? But… [Read more…]
September 11, 2010
…yes, I do love this fish and I will continue bombarding you with recipes because mackerel are cheap, healthy, delicious and so far I haven’t read about problems concerning stocks and over-fishing. Seems that it still exists in abundance – and that alone is a good reason to have it. This time: rubbed with fine sea… [Read more…]
September 10, 2010
…makes a pretty edgy video as you will see. I found the clip thanks to a facebook friend’s recommendation and I thought you might like it, too. What you see is Alinea restaurant in Chicago, where young chef Grant Achatz is doing quite spectacular things with food. He has won so many awards in recent… [Read more…]
September 9, 2010
…as long as it’s not done by yourself. I don’t know where you live but here in Europe there’s packaged and pre-seasoned frozen vegetables on every supermarket shelf (and on far too many tables). I mean, I’m not surprised that children in Britain are raised with a “Field Fresh country mix” served by BirdsEye or… [Read more…]
September 30, 2010
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